Most mashed potatoes start with a big pot of water, a generous pinch of salt and peeled potatoes boiled until tender. But when the water is drained, so is flavor, as well as some of the starch that adds creaminess to the finished dish. We wanted a better way.

Inspired by patates paçasi, a lush Turkish potato dish that we encountered in Anatolia, we did away with the full pot of water. Instead, we use a mere 1½ cups. This scant amount means that by the time the potatoes are cooked, there is no liquid to pour off. So no flavor—or starch—is lost.

We also saw it as an opportunity to build deeper flavor. Rather than adding the butter after the potatoes were cooked, we combined it with the cooking water. As the potatoes simmered, they sopped up butter, not just water. Dozens of tests later, we landed on the ultimate payoff: a mash that’s fluffy, rich and flavorful—no cream needed.

The science is straightforward. Butterfat coats the surface of each potato piece, slowing water absorption. With less water moving into the cells, the potato’s natural flavor stays concentrated instead of becoming diluted. At the same time, fewer starch granules swell to the point of bursting, which means the mash turns light rather than gluey.

For the best texture, we chose russets over Yukon Golds. Russets’ high starch and low moisture allow their cells to separate more easily when cooked, trapping air for a lighter mash. They also readily absorb butter, further amplifying that velvetiness.

The best part? This butter bath isn’t just about texture and taste; it’s also about flexibility. Because the potatoes hold their structure so well, they’re perfect for making in advance. Cook, mash and chill the potatoes up to two days ahead. When it’s time to serve, simply reheat with a splash of water for mashed potatoes that are fluffier and more flavorful than most freshly made versions.

Ari Smolin

Ari Smolin writes and edits for Milk Street’s magazine and cookbooks. Before joining the team, she baked her way from Brooklyn to Los Angeles—laminating croissants before dawn, shepherding sourdough loaves by the hundreds, and discovering that stone-milled flour plus seasonal fruit is her happy place. She writes about whole-grain baking as well, most recently co-authoring “Morning Baker: Recipes and Rituals for Breakfast and Beyond.” You can find her fruit-and-grain escapades on Instagram . Want to talk flour? Drop her a line at .