J.M. Hirsch’s Guide to Dining Out Abroad

London

One of my favorite cities in the world, London has an almost ridiculous wealth of restaurants. One of my favorites is Coal Office in King’s Cross. They serve up amazing Middle Eastern food from an open kitchen in a slick space. That’s where I learned our recipe for Fennel-Orange Salad with Harissa and Yogurt. The fennel is shaved paper thin and tossed with sweet orange segments and briny olives. The combination is shockingly good.

Also check out Delamina East, another great spot for Middle Eastern fare. That’s where I learned our recipe for Green Shakshuka, which is packed with leeks, peas, spinach and feta cheese. But as you can see from this photo of the spread I devoured that day, pretty much anything on the menu looks delicious.

Rome

Pretty sure I don’t need to sell you on the allure of Rome as a destination for great food. That said, the city is overrun by tourist traps, so finding great food actually is more challenging than you’d expect. Avoid the various places claiming to prepare the original Fettuccine Alfredo. They are legit, but you can do better making our recipe for it.

Instead, head north of the city to Mamma Angelina. Don’t order off the menu. Call ahead and ask Andrea Dell’Omo, the chef/owner, to prepare the two dishes he taught me. First is Pasta alla Papalina, a lighter, brighter riff on classic carbonara that uses Parmesan and prosciutto in place of the more common guanciale and pecorino Romano. Also have him make you his take on Rigatoni alla Zozzona, a mashup of cheesy, porky, egg-rich carbonara and spicy, tomatoey Amatriciana.

Then head to the southern side of the city and eat at Felice a Testaccio. It’s a family owned restaurant that opened in 1936 and is known for serving up traditional fare, including tonnarelli cacio e pepe. But your best bet is the Spaghetti alla Felice—piping-hot, just-drained pasta tossed with grape tomatoes, olive oil, a ton of fresh herbs and ricotta cheese.

As for a bar in Rome, there really is only one choice — Bar Kong, regularly ranked one of the best in the world. Be sure to sit at the bar. And let the bartenders guide you. Tell them what you typically drink, then let them lead the way.

Naples

Naples is just a four-hour train ride from Rome. And you would be making a huge mistake to visit Rome and not also hit Naples. It is easily my favorite big city in Italy. It has a gritty side I love. And the food is outstanding.

Avoid the usual pizza places (I wasn’t impressed). Instead, head for La Tavernetta Vittozzi, a family-run spot where five sisters—Rosa, Anna, Veronica, Enza and Elena—their parents and grandparents make amazing Neapolitan Meatballs, Italian Wedding Soup and Eggplant Parmesan. Over the years, they’re been kind enough to teach me all of them.

Another must-visit family-run spot is Enoteca e Trattoria La Cantinetta. It’s a convenience store/enoteca/restaurant where little has changed since Maria Notaro took over more than 60 years ago. Her son runs the front of the shop, where wine spigots by the cash register get a regular workout from elderly neighborhood men who pop in with their own glasses. Get the Zuppa Forte, it’s an old-school Neapolitan dish made by slow-cooking meat with garlic and onions, along with tomatoes and preserved chilies, until reduced and concentrated.

Paris

Start your day at La Grande Épicerie de Paris. Think of it as a French Eataly, but so much better. Wander, grab some bread, cheese, maybe some pâté and, of course, a bottle of wine. Then bring it all for a picnic on the Seine. For lunch, I love Le Willi's Wine Bar. I insist that you sit at the bar, ask for a glass of sancerre and whatever nibbles appeal to you.

The city’s flea markets are epic, particularly Marché aux Puces de Paris Saint-Ouen. After you hunt for deals, head to Comestibles et Marchand de Vins. It’s the sort of Parisian sidewalk wine bar/cafe you’d think only exists in movies. Let them suggest a bottle, order some (more) meats and cheeses, then just soak everything in. Last time I was there, it started raining. I didn’t care. My table was under an umbrella and it was painfully charming.