No flour? No problem. Sometimes the best substitute for flour is a recipe that doesn’t require any in the first place. Torta Barozzi is decadent, yet light, and made without wheat flour.

It also lends itself to a good Wikipedia rabbit hole. This cake was created in 1886 by pastry chef Eugenio Gollini and is still served today at the Pasticceria Gollini in Vignola, Italy. It was named “Barozzi” after Jacopo (Giacamo) Barozzi da Vignola, a 16th century Italian architect. Barozzi is well known for his work on the Villa Farnese and Church of the Gesù; his namesake torta is famous for its flavor.

The cake traditionally is leavened with just whipped egg whites, with all of the structural integrity provided by almond and peanut flours. We opted for a version made with just almond flour, as peanut flour can be difficult to source in the U.S. The great thing about almond flour — and something you don’t get with typical wheat flour— is that it adds flavor. A more flavorful ingredient choice can do so much in a recipe with a short ingredient list. Coffee, rum and almonds are all traditional flavors for this cake and we employ all three here.

This flourless cake isn’t trying to parade as its gluten-filled counterpart, but rather it is a cake made with the ingredients that are right for it. The almond flour adds a nuttiness that pairs well with the bitter flavor of espresso powder and Dutch processed cocoa powder. Dutch processed cocoa powder is alkalized, which means it’s undergone a process to neutralize some of the acidity in the cocoa beans. It’s darker in color and has a slightly less harsh flavor than natural cocoa powder.

We use espresso powder to help accentuate the roasted notes of the cocoa, imparting concentrated flavor without additional liquid. The sweetness of the dark rum is a refreshing complement that rounds it all out and brightens.

The texture of this cake is uniquely light from the egg whites, but it still has a richly complex, almost fudge-like chocolate flavor. It isn’t emulating a leavened version of chocolate cake, but perhaps it surpasses one.

How to make the best flourless chocolate cake

This cake is dead simple, from the mixing down to the serving, but be careful not to over-bake it. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve heard Christopher Kimball rail against the toothpick test, especially in regards to chocolate cakes. By the time the toothpick comes out “clean” the cake is over-baked. This Italian torta is no exception; if you do use a toothpick, you want a few crumbs still attached. Chocolate desserts can go from being underdone to overdone in just a few minutes, and you want to preserve that moist and airy interior.

Traditional Torta Barozzi is served upside down and doesn’t require a second inversion after it is flipped out of the pan. In Vignola, square slices of torta Barozzi are served with foil peeled back from the underside (which is now technically the top side). We serve ours dusted with a little cocoa powder and recommend some gelato or whipped cream if you find yourself wanting a cool, creamy contrast to complement the chocolate.

Naming this torta after an architect really is quite fitting. Every element is selected with the cake’s final form in mind. It's a cake made with intention behind every ingredient (that just happens to be gluten-free). A structural wonder indeed.

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Willow Montana

Willow Montana is the Production Manager of Digital Media at Milk Street. Willow spends their days coordinating and planning video shoots, managing schedules and overseeing the execution of digital projects. They studied Baking and Pastry Arts at Johnson and Wales University and worked in restaurants while putting themself through six more years of college. They hold a Bachelor’s of Fine Arts in English Literature and a Master’s of Fine Arts in Publishing and Writing. Willow is a firm believer in living a slow, quiet life and making things by hand. When they aren’t following the developers around with a camera at the Milk Street office, they may be found at home shaping loaves of sourdough, caring for dozens of houseplants and, occasionally, out in the wild at a punk rock show.