Whole-Wheat Pasta with Pecorino and White Wine-Onion Sauce
In Italy, J.M. Hirsch discovered the sweet and savory deliciousness of forgotten “onion pasta.”
- Makes4 to 6 servings
- Cook Time40 minutes
- 3
This simple pasta dish stars barely caramelized onions simmered in white wine, tangy pecorino Romano, black pepper and dried oregano for earthy, herbal contrast. It’s inspired by a Pugliese classic traditionally made with sweet Italian Tropea onions, a version of which chef Filippo Guarera prepared for us at his restaurant Osteria del Cardinale in Campagnano di Roma, about 30 minutes north of Rome. Cooking the onions until tender and just beginning to brown boosts their sweetness, providing a perfect counterpoint to the sharp, salty cheese. We added lemon zest to bring citrusy brightness to the sauce. After trying the dish with a handful of pasta types, we found that hearty whole-wheat noodles were our favorite; their nuttiness complements the onions, cheese and oregano. We preferred the short, chunky shape of penne, which gave the dish some heft; fusilli works, too, though we found that the spirals sometimes broke apart as they cooked in the sauce.
Don’t hold back when vigorously stirring and tossing the pasta after adding the cheese. This ensures the cheese melts quickly and evenly to create a silky, clingy sauce.
Step 1
In a 12-inch skillet over medium, combine the oil, onions and ¼ teaspoon salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions soften and begin to brown, 15 to 18 minutes. Add the wine and cook, stirring, until reduced by about half, about 1 minute. Stir in ½ teaspoon black pepper, the oregano and pepper flakes. Set aside off the heat.
Step 2
While the onions cook, in a large pot, bring 4 quarts water to a boil. Add the pasta and 1 tablespoon salt, then cook until just shy of al dente. Reserve 1 cup of the cooking water, then drain and return the pasta to the pot. Stir in the onion mixture and ½ cup of the reserved pasta water.
Step 3
Add the cheese and cook over medium, vigorously stirring and tossing, until the sauce clings to the pasta, 1 to 2 minutes. If needed, toss in additional pasta water 1 tablespoon at a time to adjust the consistency. Stir in the lemon zest and parsley, then taste and season with salt and black pepper. Serve sprinkled with additional cheese.
