Umbrian-Style Chicken alla Cacciatora

Umbria, in central Italy, is home to a tomato-free version of chicken alla cacciatora. Instead, the rustic braise gets it character from lemon, olives, garlic and herbs. Capers also are customary, but we opted instead to use pancetta to build rich, savory depth. We simmer strips of lemon zest into the sauce to infuse the dish with subtle citrusy notes. Use a sharp vegetable peeler to plane off wide strips of zest from the fruit; each piece should be roughly 2 to 3 inches long. You will need a 12-inch oven-safe skillet for this recipe. Keep in mind that when you remove the pan from the oven, the handle will be hot; it’s a good idea to slip an oven mitt over the handle as a reminder.