Ugly but Good Cookies (Brutti ma Buoni)
- Makes20 Cookies
- Cook Time50 minutes
- Active time plus cooling30 minutes active, plus cooling
- 2
They may not look like much, but they’ve got it where it counts. That’s brutti ma buoni, a satisfyingly chewy, nut-centric Tuscan cookie that translates as “ugly but good.” The folks at Antonio Mattei Premiata Fabrica di Biscotti in Tuscany say they were created there in 1910 by the owner’s wife as a way to use up the crushed almonds and egg whites left behind from making biscotti. Others say the cookies originated elsewhere in northern Italy as a way to utilize the abundance of hazelnuts. Store in an airtight container at room temperature up to five days.
Step 1
Heat the oven to 350°F with a rack in the middle position. Line a rimmed baking sheet with kitchen parchment. Spread the nuts on the pan and toast until fragrant and lightly browned, 8 to 10 minutes, stirring halfway through. Cool on the baking sheet. If using hazelnuts, wrap in a kitchen towel and rub to remove the skins. Reserve the parchment-lined baking sheet.
Step 2
In a food processor, pulse the nuts until roughly chopped, about 10 pulses. Add the 107 grams (½ cup) sugar, flour and lemon zest; pulse until well combined and the nuts are fine, nubby bits, 10 to 12 pulses. In a large bowl, whisk the egg whites until frothy, about 1 minute. Whisk in the remaining 2 tablespoons sugar, the salt and both extracts until light and foamy, 1 to 2 minutes. With a silicone spatula, fold in half the nuts; repeat with the remaining nuts. The dough will be stiff and sticky.
Step 3
Divide the dough into 20 portions (1½ tablespoons each), forming each into ball by rolling it between hands lightly moistened with water. Place on the reserved baking sheet in 4 rows of 5. Bake until lightly browned and crisp on top, 18 to 20 minutes. Cool on the baking sheet on a wire rack for 15 minutes. Using a wide metal spatula, transfer the cookies directly to the rack and cool completely.