Turkish Pide Breads
“It’s as if a Pullman loaf married a piadina. Marvelous.”
- MakesMakes two 10-inch breads
- Cook Time2¼ hours
- Active time plus cooling30 minutes active
- 8
The Turkish name for this bread is pide ekmeği, which translates as “pita bread.” But these are not the thin, pocketed flatbreads familiar to most Americans. Pide ekmeği are roughly the size of a small pizza, with an airy, open crumb and a tender, almost pillowy quality. Sometimes a sprinkling of seeds adds texture and flavor. We encountered pide ekmeği served alongside tepsi kebabı, or “tray kebab,” during a visit to Türkiye. We tried basic bread-making formulas, but ultimately found that starting with a sponge—a mixture of yeast, flour and water that becomes bubbly after standing for 30 minutes—produced breads with not only the lightness we were after, but also a more complex flavor. For dusting the breads just before baking, we use nigella seeds, which have an earthy, slightly bitter flavor with notes of allium. Sesame seeds are good, too—or use a combination. The bread is best served warm or at room temperature the day of baking, but foil-wrapped leftovers reheat well in a 400°F oven in about 10 minutes.
Don’t be tempted to add more flour to the dough during mixing. The dough’s relatively high hydration is key to the bread’s light, airy crumb.
Step 1
In the bowl of a stand mixer, whisk together 1 cup of the warm water, the yeast, honey and 137 grams (1 cup) of the flour. Cover and let stand at room temperature for 30 minutes; the mixture, called a “sponge,” will rise slightly and become bubbly.
Step 2
To the sponge, add the remaining 411 grams (3 cups) flour, remaining 1 cup warm water and 3 tablespoons of the oil. Using the dough hook, mix on medium for 5 minutes, scraping the bowl as needed. Add the salt and knead on medium until a sticky, batter-like dough forms (it will not clear the sides of the bowl), about another 5 minutes, scraping the bowl as needed. Detach the bowl from the mixer. Scrape the sides of the bowl. Cover the bowl with a kitchen towel and let rise at room temperature until doubled, 1 to 1½ hours. Meanwhile, drizzle the remaining 2 tablespoons oil onto a rimmed baking sheet, then brush to coat evenly.
Step 3
When the dough has doubled, generously dust the counter with flour, then turn the dough out onto it; divide in half. Shape each portion into a smooth ball, flouring your hands as needed. Set a dough ball on each side of the prepared baking sheet, cover with a towel and let rest 15 minutes. Meanwhile, heat the oven to 475°F with a rack in the middle position.
Step 4
Using your hands, gently pat and flatten each portion into a 10-by-7-inch oval, taking care not to press out all of the air. Re-cover with the towel and let rest for 20 minutes; it’s fine if the ovals end up touching.
Step 5
Gently brush one portion of the dough with egg. Imprint a series of dimples, spaced about 1 inch apart, into the oval by firmly pressing your fingertips straight down into the dough. Again using your fingertips, imprint another series of dimples, also spaced about 1 inch apart, perpendicular to the first set, creating a rough grid pattern in the dough. Brush the second dough portion with egg and dimple it the same way as the first.
Step 6
Sprinkle the ovals with the nigella seeds. Bake until light golden brown and well risen, 16 to 18 minutes. Cool for about 5 minutes on the baking sheet, then transfer to a wire rack. Serve warm or at room temperature.
