Toasted Orzo with Shrimp and Mussels

We learned this dish, called kritharoto, in Thessaloniki, at Tiffany’s x 1905, a restaurant serving modern Greek fare. There, chef Theodoris Pastourmatzis used four varieties of seafood, along with cognac and three different alliums. Our version is streamlined enough for a weeknight dinner. Toasting the orzo brings out sweet, wheaty notes and prevents the dish from becoming too starchy. If you prefer clams over mussels, use a small hard-shell variety, such as littleneck or Manila; the cooking time remains the same. And if you don’t have fresh oregano but do have parsley, feel free to swap. Be sure to use a Dutch oven rather than a tall, narrow pot, as the ingredients need a broad surface area.