Sugared Crème Fraîche Brioche Buns (Galettes Bressane)
- MakesMakes 8 buns
- Cook Time2½ hours
- Active time plus cooling45 minutes active, plus cooling
Despite the recipe name, we are not making brioche here, a notoriously difficult bread. Rather, it’s a brioche-adjacent dough that is simpler and more manageable, but still bakes up with a feathery, rich-yet-light crumb—a perfect casing for lightly sweetened, vanilla-scented crème fraîche. This type of cream-filled brioche, known in French as galette bressane, typically is made as a full-size “tart.” However, the individually sized, highly stylized galette bressane offered at Le Pain de Joël Robuchon bakeries in Tokyo inspired Melbourne chef and cookbook author Brendan Liew to develop a simpler but equally delicious version. This is our adaptation of his recipe from “Tokyo Local.” When mixing the dough, resist the urge to add more flour; it should be sticky and lustrous. During rising, the flour will hydrate, and the dough will become more workable. When dividing the dough and shaping the buns, use minimal flour on the work surface along a gentle touch to prevent toughness in the finished breads. The buns are best served the day they are baked.
Step 1
To make the dough, in the bowl of a stand mixer, whisk the milk, eggs, sugar, yeast and vanilla until smooth. Stir in the flour and salt. Using the paddle attachment, mix on low until the dough forms a shaggy mass. Increase to medium-low and mix until glossy and smooth, about 5 minutes, scraping the paddle and the sides of the bowl once or twice. With the mixer on medium-low, add the butter 1 piece at a time, mixing 15 to 30 seconds before adding the next. After all the butter has been added, mix on medium until the dough is smooth and elastic but still very sticky, about 10 minutes; do not add more flour. Scrape the paddle attachment and the sides of the bowl, then gather the dough in the center. Cover and let rise until almost doubled, 45 to 60 minutes. Meanwhile, line a rimmed baking sheet with kitchen parchment.
Step 2
Lightly flour the counter and turn the dough out onto it. Using a chef’s knife or bench scraper, divide the dough into 8 equal portions. Form each into a taut ball by rolling it against the counter in a circular motion under a cupped hand, lightly flouring your hands if needed to prevent sticking, then pinch the seam. Space evenly, seam side down, on the prepared baking sheet, then gently flatten each with the palm of your hand into a 3-inch round. Cover with a kitchen towel and let rise at room temperature 45 minutes; the buns will expand only by about 50 percent (they should not double). About 30 minutes into rising, heat the oven to 350°F with a rack in the middle position.
Step 3
Meanwhile, make the filling and egg wash. In a small bowl, stir together the crème fraîche, vanilla and sugar. In another small bowl, whisk the egg and milk. After the buns have risen for 45 minutes, using floured fingertips, form a 1½-inch wide hollow in the center of each about three-fourths into the depth of the dough. Brush the edges and center of each bun with egg wash, then spoon the crème fraîche mixture into each. Generously sprinkle the filled buns with sugar.
Step 4
Bake until golden brown, 15 to 20 minutes. Cool on the baking sheet on a wire rack for at least 15 minutes before serving.