Spaghetti with Guanciale and Pecorino (Pasta alla Gricia)
- Makes4 servings
- Cook Time40 minutes
- 1
To make this minimalist pasta dish, we employ the same unconventional technique we use to make cacio e pepe, another Roman classic. Our pasta alla gricia is a one-pan affair that utilizes the starch released by the pasta as it cooks to create a lightly thickened sauce that clings to the noodles. Because the starch is a key ingredient, it’s important to seek out bronze-cut spaghetti. This variety has been extruded through a bronze die that leaves the strands with a rough, floury surface instead of the smooth sheen of inexpensive pasta. (Widely available DeCecco is “bronze drawn” and works in this recipe, as do premium brands such as Rustichella d’Abruzzo.) Guanciale is cured pork cheek. It's meatier and saltier than pancetta, and purists would not make pasta alla gricia without it. Look for guanciale in Italian markets, but if pancetta is the only option, it still will yield delicious results.
Don’t forget to add 1 tablespoon olive oil to the skillet if using pancetta, which is leaner than guanciale, to help with browning, then make sure to pour off the rendered pork fat from the skillet before adding the pasta. If left in, it will make the dish greasy. Also, don’t try to cook a full pound of pasta; it won’t fit in the skillet and will throw off flavor, texture and timing.
Step 1
In a small bowl, toss both cheeses. In a 12-inch skillet over medium, cook the guanciale or the pancetta and oil, stirring occasionally, until browned and crisp, 4 to 6 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the meat to a small bowl; set aside. Pour off and discard the fat or reserve for another use.
Step 2
To the same skillet, add the spaghetti, placing the noodles parallel to each other at the center, then add 2 tablespoons of the cheese mixture and ½ teaspoon pepper. Add 4½ cups water. Bring to a boil over medium-high and cook, uncovered and frequently moving the pasta with tongs but keeping it submerged, until just shy of al dente. When done, the pasta no longer will be fully submerged and there should be a fair amount of starchy liquid (at least 1 cup) in the pan. If the pasta is very underdone and the water is already quite reduced, add another ½ cup water and cook, stirring, until just shy of al dente.
Step 3
With the pan still on medium-high, add about half of the remaining cheese mixture and toss until fully melted. Add the remaining cheese mixture in 2 more additions, tossing until melted after each. The liquid will form a thin sauce that pools in the pan. With the skillet still on medium-high, toss the spaghetti until al dente and lightly sauced, with a small amount of creamy sauce (about ¼ cup) pooled in the skillet; the timing will vary by how much liquid was in the pan before the first addition of cheese. But at this point, cooking should take a couple of minutes at most.
Step 4
Off heat, toss in the guanciale and ½ teaspoon pepper, then let stand for 1 to 2 minutes; during this time, the sauce will “tighten” a bit more. Toss again. Taste and season with salt and pepper.
