Polenta, a savory cornmeal porridge, can be a disappointment in the U.S., tasting mostly of the cheese and fat that weigh it down. Not to mention it requires near-constant whisking to get a lump-free consistency. But in Cossano Belbo, Italy, we learned a better way from Maria Teresa Marino, whose family has run a grain mill for centuries: No cheese, no butter, not much stirring. The porridge was light and fresh and the taste of the corn shined through. We followed that lead, using more water than called for in conventional recipes—11 cups. Combining the cornmeal with cold, not boiling, water, then bringing the entire pot to a simmer, prevented clumping. We finished cooking the polenta in the oven rather than the stovetop, which gave us for more consistent, gentle heat. For the best flavor and texture, use coarse stone-ground cornmeal; fine cornmeal produced pasty, gluey polenta, while steel-ground cornmeal had less flavor. We liked Bob’s Red Mill coarse-grind cornmeal and its polenta corn grits, but found that different brands can cook up with slightly different consistencies. The finished polenta should be pourable; if it’s too thick, thin it with water as needed. It’s good on its own or as a side to braised meats.