Sicilian Semolina and Sesame Bread
Our version of pane siciliano, or Sicilian sesame bread, has a soft, fine quality and a rustic, satisfying chew.
- MakesMakes One 1¾-pound loaf
- Cook Time2¾ hours
- Active time plus cooling35 minutes active, plus cooling
- 5
Our version of pane siciliano, or Sicilian sesame bread, has a soft, fine quality and a rustic, satisfying chew. The crumb’s golden hue comes from semolina. Milled from durum wheat and commonly used to make pasta, semolina is relatively high in protein and has a slightly more granular texture than fine cornmeal. Bob’s Red Mill, a brand widely available in supermarkets, works well, but pass on semolina labeled “coarse,” as it will give the bread an unpleasant grittiness. Sesame seeds, on the inside and exterior of the loaf, bring earthy flavor that enhances the nutty nuances of the semolina. Baking the S-shaped coiled loaf in a steamy oven allows it to rise properly before the exterior sets and helps create a crisper crust because it facilitates starch gelatinization. The dough also makes terrific buns (see the instructions below). Store leftovers in a zip-close bag at room temperature for up to four days. To refresh the loaf, wrap it in foil and warm in a 325°F oven for 15 minutes.
Don’t flour the counter before turning the dough out onto it for shaping. The dough needs to stick slightly so it can be rolled into a log; on a floured surface it will slide around. Don’t use a glass baking dish for the water in the oven; it can shatter. Finally, don’t allow the shaped loaf to fully double in size before baking. We found that slightly underproofing this bread results in a better-textured crumb.
Step 1
In an 8-inch skillet over medium, toast 30 grams (3 tablespoons) of the sesame seeds, stirring, until fragrant and lightly browned, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a spice grinder and cool completely, then pulse until coarsely ground, about 6 pulses.
Step 2
In a 2-cup liquid measuring cup, stir together 1¼ cups of the warm water, the oil and 1 tablespoon of the honey. In the bowl of a stand mixer, whisk together the ground sesame, both flours, the yeast and salt. Attach the bowl and dough hook to the mixer. With the mixer on low, gradually add the water mixture. Increase to medium and knead until a smooth dough forms and clears the sides of the bowl, about 10 minutes. Using your hands, form the dough into a ball in the bowl, cover with plastic wrap and let rise at room temperature until doubled, 1 to 1½ hours. Meanwhile, line a rimmed baking sheet with kitchen parchment and dust it with semolina.
Step 3
Turn the dough out onto a dry counter (not floured). Form the dough into a thick log about 12 inches long. Using your hands, roll the log back and forth against the counter while applying light pressure, stretching the dough into an evenly thick rope about 30 inches long. Starting at one end, tightly coil the rope, stopping at the rope’s midpoint. Coil the other end of the rope in the opposite direction from the first, forming an S shape.
Step 4
Place the shaped dough on the prepared baking sheet; reshape if needed. Drape a kitchen towel over the loaf and let rise at room temperature until just shy of doubled, 45 to 60 minutes. About 20 minutes into rising, position racks in the middle and lower-middle of the oven. Place a 9-by-13-inch metal baking pan on the lower rack and heat the oven to 375°F. In a small bowl, stir together the remaining 3 tablespoons warm water and the remaining 1 teaspoon honey. Have ready 3 cups hot tap water to pour into the baking pan to create steam for baking the bread.
Step 5
When the dough has almost doubled, brush it with the honey-water mixture (you will not use it all), then sprinkle evenly with the remaining 1 tablespoon sesame seeds. Place the baking sheet on the upper rack of the oven, carefully pour the hot tap water into the baking pan and quickly close the oven door. Bake until golden brown and the center reaches 200°F, 35 to 40 minutes.
Step 6
Cool the loaf on the baking sheet on a wire rack for about 5 minutes. Transfer directly to the rack and cool completely.
Step 7
Semolina and Sesame Buns: Start to finish: 2½ hours (40 minutes active), plus cooling. Makes six 4½-inch buns. After mixing and allowing the dough to double, divide it into 6 equal portions, each about 145 grams (5 ounces). Form each portion into a taut ball by rolling it against the counter in a circular motion under a cupped hand; place seam-side down and evenly spaced on the prepared baking sheet. Using your hand, flatten each ball to a 1-inch thickness (if you wish to make taller, rounder rolls, do not flatten the portions). Drape a kitchen towel over the buns and let rise at room temperature until doubled, 30 to 45 minutes. Meanwhile, position racks in the middle and lower-middle of the oven. Place a 9-by-13-inch metal baking pan on the lower rack and heat the oven to 375°F. In a small bowl, stir together the remaining 3 tablespoons warm water and the remaining 1 teaspoon honey. Have ready 3 cups hot tap water to pour into the baking pan to create steam for baking the buns. When the buns have doubled, brush them with the honey-water mixture (you will not use it all), then sprinkle evenly with the remaining 1 tablespoon sesame seeds. Place the baking sheet on the upper rack of the oven, carefully pour the hot tap water into the baking pan and quickly close the oven door. Bake until golden brown and the centers reach 200°F, 30 to 35 minutes. Cool on the baking sheet on a wire rack for about 5 minutes. Transfer directly to the rack and cool completely.
