Red Chili Soup with Mixed Mushrooms
This mushroom soup, our version of chileatole rojo, packs smoky chili flavor in thickened tomatoey broth.
- Makes6 servings
- Cook Time45 minutes
- 2
Mexican chileatole is a traditional soup thickened with masa (ground nixtamalized corn). Made with fresh green chilies, the dish is called chileatole verde; with dried red chilies, chileatole rojo. This version of chileatole rojo with mushrooms comes from Friend of Milk Street, Iliana de la Vega, Mexico City native and chef of El Naranjo restaurant in Austin, Texas. Dark, raisiny ancho chilies and spicy, smoky chipotles, plus onion, garlic and tomatoes charred in a pan on the stovetop and blended until smooth, form a base for a soup with seductively deep, rich and earthy flavors. Masa harina—masa in flour form—is the thickener; it’s sold in most supermarkets with the baking ingredients or in the international aisle. If masa harina is not available, corn tortillas torn into small pieces work, too, but be sure to use corn tortillas, not those made with a blend of corn and wheat flour.
Don’t use canned chipotle chilies in adobo sauce. Chipotles sold in dried form are the correct variety for this recipe. Chilies labeled as “morita,” a type of chipotle, work well here. If using shiitake mushrooms, be sure to remove and discard the stems, as they’re fibrous and don’t soften during cooking.
Step 1
In a large pot over medium, toast both chili varieties, stirring often, just until fragrant, about 1 minute.
Transfer to a medium bowl and add boiling water to cover; reserve the pot.
Soak until the chilies are fully softened, about 15 minutes.
Step 2
Meanwhile, return the pot to medium and add the cumin; toast the seeds, stirring often, until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer the seeds to a blender; set aside.
To the same pot over medium, add the tomatoes, onion and garlic. Cook, occasionally turning them with tongs, until charred in spots, about 3 minutes.
Trim off and discard the root ends of the onion halves, then transfer the vegetables to the blender; reserve the pot.
Step 3
When the chilies are softened, pour off and discard the soaking water.
Add the chilies and ¼ cup of the broth to the blender with the vegetables, then puree until smooth, about 1 minute, scraping the blender jar as needed.
Step 4
If using masa harina to thicken the soup, in a small bowl, combine the masa harina and 1 cup water, then whisk until smooth. If using corn tortillas, tear them into rough ½-inch pieces.
Step 5
In the same pot over medium, heat the oil until shimmering.
Add the chili-vegetable puree and cook, stirring occasionally, until it thickens enough that a spatula drawn through it leaves a trail, about 5 minutes.
Stir in the mushrooms, remaining 6 cups broth, 1 teaspoon salt and ½ teaspoon pepper, then bring to a simmer.
If using masa harina, while stirring the broth mixture, gradually add the slurry; if using tortillas, simply add them to the broth mixture.
Step 6
Return to a simmer and cook, uncovered and stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms are tender and the soup is thickened (if using tortillas, they should break down completely), about 15 minutes; adjust the heat as needed to maintain a gentle but steady simmer.
Step 7
Off heat, taste and season with salt and pepper, then stir in the cilantro.
Serve with lime wedges.
