Asparagus with Pickled Ginger and Scallions

Japanese pickled ginger, the type offered alongside sushi, is a tangy-sweet, fiery accent for grassy asparagus. We first cook the ginger with a little sugar in a good dose of butter so the sugars caramelize lightly as the butter browns, developing a solid flavor base for the sauté. Pickled ginger may be yellowish-white or pink; we prefer the former because no colorings are added, but both types work. Look for it in the Asian aisle of the supermarket or in the refrigerator case near the tofu.