Meringue-Topped Cake with Cherries
- Makes10 to 12 servings
- Cook Time2¼ hours
- Active time plus cooling1 hour active, plus cooling
- 2
Romanian prăjitură cu rubarbă is a simple, rustic rhubarb-studded cake that is covered with a snowy cloud of meringue after baking, then slid back into the oven. A few minutes later, the two-layer treat emerges with a crown of golden swirls and peaks—a sort of feather-light frosting on an open-crumbed fruit cake. Riffing on Irina Georgescu’s recipe from “Tava,” we swapped pitted cherries (either fresh or thawed frozen works well) for highly seasonal rhubarb. We first macerate the fruits with a little sugar to draw out some of the juices that otherwise make the cake soggy. We scatter the cherries onto the batter before baking, but they wind up in a jam-like layer at the bottom of the cake. Most Romanian meringue-topped rhubarb cakes are baked in a square or rectangular pan, but we use a springform, which makes for an easy, elegant presentation. Testing revealed that the finish of the pan affects the baking. A dark-colored pan, such as one with a nonstick coating, requires a slightly lower oven temperature than a light-colored one, so make sure to heat the oven as directed in the recipe depending on the finish of your pan. This cake is best served the day it is baked, but leftovers can be refrigerated, tented with foil, for up to a day; bring to room temperature before serving. The meringue may form beads of moisture on the surface, but the taste and texture still will be good.
Don’t begin whipping the egg whites to make the meringue until the cake is out of the oven. Once it attains the correct volume, the meringue needs to be used right away. If it is left to stand, it will take on a curdled appearance and may begin to loose its loft. Don’t pile the meringue onto the center of the cake, which is the most delicate area. Instead, dollop the meringue onto several spots across the surface so its weight is distributed. And use a light hand when spreading it.
Step 1
To make the cake, place the cherries in a colander set in a bowl. Sprinkle with 2 tablespoons of the sugar, then toss. Let stand at room temperature for 30 minutes. Meanwhile, adjust an oven rack to the lower-middle position. If your 9-inch springform pan is light in color, heat the oven to 350°F; if your pan has a dark finish, heat to 325°F. Mist the springform pan with cooking spray. Dust the pan evenly with flour, then knock out the excess.
Step 2
In a small microwave-safe bowl or liquid measuring cup, combine the milk and butter; microwave on high for 1 minute. Stir to encourage any remaining butter bits to melt, then let cool until ready to use. In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder and salt.
Step 3
When the cherries have drained for 30 minutes, in a stand mixer with the whisk attachment, beat the whole egg and yolks, remaining 214 grams (1 cup) sugar and lemon zest on medium until combined, about 30 seconds. Increase to medium-high and beat until the mixture is pale yellow and doubled in volume, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the vanilla to the milk mixture, then reduce the mixer to low and, with the mixer running, slowly drizzle in the milk mixture; the egg mixture will “loosen” in consistency. Using a silicone spatula, scrape down the bowl.
Step 4
With the mixer again running on low, add the flour mixture in three or four additions, mixing until almost fully incorporated before adding more. After the final addition, detach the bowl from the mixer. Using the spatula, give the batter a few folds, scraping the bottom and sides of the bowl to ensure no pockets of flour remain. Pour into the prepared pan.
Step 5
Using the spatula, press on the cherries in the colander to remove as much liquid as possible. Scatter the cherries evenly over the batter; discard the juices or reserve for another use. Bake until the cake is golden brown and a toothpick inserted at the center comes out clean, 40 to 45 minutes. While the cake bakes, thoroughly clean and dry the mixer bowl and whisk attachment.
Step 6
When the cake is done, remove it from the oven and set it on a wire rack; leave the oven on.
Step 7
To make the meringue, in the clean mixer bowl and using the clean whisk attachment, beat the egg whites and salt on medium until foamy, about 1 minute. With the mixer running, add the lemon juice, then slowly sprinkle in the sugar. Increase to medium-high and whip until the whites are thick and glossy and hold soft peaks, 3 to 4 minutes. Detach the bowl from the mixer.
Step 8
Using a silicone spatula, dollop the meringue across the surface of the still-warm cake. Using the back of a large spoon, gently spread the meringue to cover the cake and to create peaks and swirls. Return the cake to the oven and bake until the meringue is light golden brown, 20 to 25 minutes.
Step 9
Transfer to a wire rack and cool for 30 minutes. Run a thin-bladed knife between sides of the cake and the pan to loosen, then remove the sides of the pan. Cool completely before serving.
