Lemon-Saffron Chicken (Tangia)

Tangia—which originates in Marrakech and often is slow-cooked in the community wood-fired ovens that heat bathhouses—is a stew-like dish of fall-apart tender hunks of lamb bathed in a thick, but spare broth rich with saffron, turmeric, cumin, ginger, garlic and lemon. We got a lesson in cooking tangia the traditional way from taxi driver Youssef Boufelja. Lamb is typical, but we use boneless, skinless chicken thighs. In Morocco, preserved lemons lend a gentle acidity, lightening the richness. For an easier version, we get similar flavor from lemon zest and juice—as well as chopped green olives for brininess—added at the end of cooking. Serve with warmed, halved pita bread for scooping up the meat and thickened sauce.