Lebanese Flatbreads with Tomatoes, Za’atar and Sumac

These savory flatbreads are Middle Eastern in origin, but we learned about them in São Paulo, Brazil, where they’re called esfihas (sometimes spelled esfirras). The breads were introduced to Brazil by Arab immigrants, particularly from Lebanon and Syria, in the late 19th century. Esfihas might be formed into dumpling-like buns that fully enclose a filling, but the ones we favored were open-face like pizzas and about the size of a saucer. At São Paulo’s Restaurante & Rotisserie Halim, Yasmin Sultan showed us how to make those pizza-style esfihas. We adapted the recipe, adding some yogurt to the dough for a richer, more tender crumb that complements a simple topping of chopped tomatoes and olive oil mixed with za’atar and sumac. Za’atar is an herb, seed and spice blend; sumac is the ground dried berries of the sumac plant. Look for both in well-stocked grocery stores, spice shops and Middle Eastern markets. If you have leftover esfihas, wrap them well and refrigerate for up to two days. Rewarm in a 425°F oven on a wire rack set in a baking sheet for five to eight minutes.