To make the dough, in a 2-cup liquid measuring cup, whisk the yogurt, ⅓ cup of the oil and ⅓ cup water. In a stand mixer with the dough hook, mix the flour, yeast and table salt on medium until well combined, about 15 seconds. With the mixer on low, drizzle in the yogurt mixture. Increase to medium and knead until the mixture forms a smooth, elastic dough that clears the sides of the bowl, 7 to 10 minutes; if the dough sticks, add flour, 1 tablespoon at a time. Meanwhile, coat 2 rimmed baking sheets with 2 tablespoons oil each.

Generously dust the counter with flour and turn the dough out onto it. Divide the dough into 12 portions. Form into smooth balls, then place 6 on each prepared baking sheet, evenly spaced. Cover with kitchen towels and let rise until doubled in bulk, 45 minutes to 1 hour.

To make the topping, in a colander or fine-mesh sieve set in or over a bowl, toss the tomatoes with 1 teaspoon kosher salt; set aside. In a medium bowl, mix together the beef, za’atar, 3 tablespoons water, allspice and ½ teaspoon each kosher salt and black pepper.

In a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium, heat the oil until shimmering. Stir in the onion and ½ teaspoon kosher salt, then cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened but not browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Add the garlic and cayenne; cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in the beef mixture, breaking up any clumps. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until the meat is no longer pink, about 10 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl, then stir in the tahini; set aside to cool.

To shape, top and bake the pizzas, heat the oven to 500°F with a rack in the middle position. Using your fingers, press each dough ball into a 5-inch round directly on the baking sheet; start at the center of the dough and work outward, leaving the edge slightly thicker. Lightly brush each round with oil.

Shake the colander containing the tomatoes to remove as much moisture as possible. Stir the tomatoes into the meat mixture, then taste and season with kosher salt and pepper. Using a ¼-cup measuring cup, evenly divide the topping among the rounds, then spread in an even layer, leaving a ½-inch edge and firmly pressing it into the dough; it’s fine if the rounds end up touching each other. Let rise, uncovered, until the edges of the dough are puffy, 20 to 30 minutes.

Bake the pizzas one baking sheet at a time until the edges are golden brown, 8 to 10 minutes. Cool on the baking sheet on a wire rack, then use a wide metal spatula to transfer the pizzas directly to the wire rack. Cool for a few minutes. Serve warm, drizzled with pomegranate molasses (if using).

Lebanese Flatbreads with Tomatoes Spiced with Za’atar and Sumac: Follow the recipe to make the dough. After dividing the dough into 12 portions, while it is rising, in a colander or fine-mesh sieve set in or over a bowl, toss together 1 pound ripe tomatoes (cored, seeded and chopped) and 1 teaspoon kosher salt; set aside. In a medium bowl, stir together ¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil, 3 tablespoons za’atar, 1 tablespoon ground sumac and 1 teaspoon each kosher salt and ground black pepper; set aside. Shape the dough as directed into 12 rounds, then, using your fingers, dimple each round, avoiding the edge. Spoon the oil mixture onto the rounds, dividing it evenly and making sure to include the solids that settle at the bottom. Shake the colander of tomatoes to drain as much moisture as possible. Divide the tomatoes evenly among the rounds, leaving a ½-inch edge, and lightly press them into the dough. Let rise, bake and cool as directed. Serve warm, drizzled with pomegranate molasses.