Japanese Macaroni Salad

Like curry rice and tonkatsu, this macaroni salad is an example of yoshoku cuisine: a Western-influenced style of Japanese cooking. This salad typically is made with Kewpie—a custardy, yolk-rich Japanese mayonnaise made with rice vinegar or cider vinegar, both of which have a natural subtle sweetness in addition to acidity. To replicate Kewpie’s flavor, we toss cooled macaroni in a mixture of tangy rice vinegar and American-style mayonnaise. The creamy yet balanced base is brightened by crisp vegetables, salted and drained for concentrated flavor and crunch, plus umami-packed smoked ham. The salad is a delicious side to grilled soy-seasoned meats and poultry. Serve it sprinkled with shichimi togarashi, a Japanese seven-spice blend, or furikake, a sesame seed and seaweed condiment.