Indian-Spiced Smashed Potatoes

These crisp on the outside, dense and creamy on the inside smashed potatoes are our riff on the gunpowder potatoes we loved at Dishoom, an Indian restaurant with multiple locations in the U.K. We simmer then drain skin-on potatoes, smash them until they crack open, then roast them on a baking sheet until the exteriors brown and crisp. Sliced jalapeños bring chili heat, and a trio of coarsely ground spices—cumin, coriander and fennel—add texture and warm, earthy flavor. We also like to include fenugreek, which has distinctive maple-like notes. If you cannot find it, simply omit. Blooming the spices in butter just before tossing with the smashed potatoes draws out their character while also infusing the fat for better distribution of flavor. Dishoom serves a cooling raita alongside the potatoes (see the recipe below), but if you prefer a simpler accompaniment, offer lime wedges for squeezing.