Greek Spinach and Feta Pie (Spanakotiropita)

“Spanakopita” is the term commonly used outside Greece to refer to a savory spinach, feta and phyllo pie, but in Thessaloniki, we learned that spanakotiropita is more accurate, as the “tiro” in the middle of word signals there is the feta in the filling. We also learned there are multiple ways of making and shaping the pastry. Our recipe uses store-bought frozen phyllo and forms a simple slab-style pie inspired by the bougatsa—another type of Greek pastry encased in phyllo—that we tasted in a few bakeries. For best flavor, purchase feta in block form and crumble it yourself; pre-crumbed tends to be lackluster. Phyllo in the U.S. typically is sold in 1-pound boxes containing either 13-by-18-inch or 9-by-14-inch sheets. If using the latter, you will need to overlap two sheets to fit into the standard 13-by-18-inch rimmed baking sheet on which the layers are assembled; the recipe includes instructions. Serve the pie warm or at room temperature. It is hearty enough to be a main, but also makes an excellent starter. Wrapped well, leftovers will keep in the refrigerator for up to three days; rewarm in a 350°F oven for about 15 minutes.