Gnocchi alla Romana

Despite their name, these dumplings are quite different from the more widely known potato-based gnocchi. Instead, they’re made from a stovetop semolina dough that’s spread into a thinnish layer on a baking sheet and chilled until firm. The slab then is cut into rounds or squares, doused in butter and cheese and baked. As their name suggests, gnocchi alla romana are popular in Rome, though some believe the recipe was created a few hundred miles north, in Piedmont. This theory stems from the inclusion of butter and Parmesan—both ingredients common in northern Italy, but less frequently used in Roman fare. The dumplings’ cheesy, delicately crisp exteriors and pillowy-soft insides make them deeply satisfying. Be sure to thoroughly chill the dough before slicing and shingling the gnocchi in the baking dish—they’re far easier to handle when cold.