Garlic and Black Pepper Noodles with Shrimp and Chives

The popular, deliciously buttery, umami-packed garlic noodles served at the An family’s Vietnamese restaurants in Northern and Southern California inspired this quick-cooking recipe. Lots of black pepper lends an undercurrent of spiciness and piney notes and plump, briny-sweet shrimp turn the noodles into a main. We call for non-instant dried ramen, lo mein or other wheat-based noodles with a thickness similar to spaghetti. Avoid rice noodles, however—some of the cooking water is stirred into the sauce, and the starch from rice noodles becomes more slimy than silky. Small shrimp, 51/60 per pound, work best here as they integrate nicely with the noodles. Fresh chives or scallion greens add a pop of color and freshness, balancing the richness of the dish.