French Toast, Perfected

This recipe delivers thick slabs of French toast that are crispy outside, yet rich and custardy at the center, but without any sogginess. For plush, tender French toast, challah is best; for a heartier texture, opt for a batard-shaped Italian bread with a sturdy, rustic crumb (look for a loaf about 6 inches wide by 4 inches high). Whichever you use, cut 1-inch-thick slices from the center, if possible. Lightly toasting the bread until dry on the surface but not browned is essential for proper absorption (alternatively, allow the slices to dry overnight, uncovered, on a wire rack). The surprise ingredient is semolina. A couple tablespoons in the egg-milk soak adds just the right amount of starch so the bread does not become limp and structureless at the center. Sugar sprinkled onto the surface of the soaked slices just before butter-frying yields crisp caramelization. Maple syrup is our favorite accompaniment, along with fresh berries.