Fettuccine with Mushroom and Tomato Ragù

When developing this pasta dish, we had in mind the Genovese porcini mushroom sauce called tocco de funzi. We found, however, that we could coax rich, meaty flavor simply from cooking out the moisture from a generous amount of cremini mushrooms, so we skipped the pricy porcinis. Rosemary and white wine add balancing herbal notes and acidity. We like the ragù on wide, strand-shaped pasta, but it also works well with short, chunkier shapes such as penne and cavatappi.