Corn Chowder with Miso and Scallions

This corn chowder, inspired by a corn side dish in “The Gaijin Cookbook” by Ivan Orkin and Chris Ying, is unconventional in a couple of ways. Instead of relying on an abundance of dairy for creaminess, we puree a portion of the cooked vegetables. This gives the soup body without blunting the delicate sweet, grassy notes of the corn, nor the earthiness of the potatoes. Secondly, white miso lends deep, umami-rich flavor, so there’s no need for the salt pork or bacon typically used in corn chowder, nor even for chicken broth, so this soup is vegetarian-friendly. Fresh in-season corn is, of course, best—we cut the kernels from the ears and simmer the cobs right in the mix, which infuses the broth with maximum flavor. Out of season, frozen corn kernels are a decent stand-in. You won’t have cobs for simmering, but the chowder still will be good. And if you wish the chowder to have golden hue, stir in a pinch or two of ground turmeric.