Chinese Almond Cookies
- MakesMakes 24 cookies
- Cook Time1 hour
- Active time plus coolingplus cooling
- 1
These golden-hued cookies, meant to resemble coins, are believed to be a Chinese-American invention inspired by traditional Chinese walnut cookies called hup toh soh. The almond cookies sold in bakeries typically have a sturdy crispness throughout yet a unique fineness and lightness to the crumb because of the fat used to make the dough—oftentimes shortening or sometimes lard. But their almond character tends to be one-note and heavy, derived primarily from extract. In our version, we use a combination of butter and shortening (we preferred the cleaner flavor of shortening over lard). Using this duo makes the cookies richer and sweeter; it also results in delicately crisp edges that contrast nicely against the slightly chewy centers. To give the cookies deep, true nuttiness, in addition to a small amount of almond extract, we use a generous amount of almond flour which we toast in a skillet to enhance its flavor and aroma. The cookies are best the day of baking, when the edges are crisp and the centers yielding. They can, however, be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to five days, but their texture will become more uniform.
Don’t leave the almond flour in the skillet after toasting, or it will scorch due to residual heat. Transfer it immediately to a bowl so it can begin to cool. When beating the fats and sugar and after adding the eggs, keep the mixer speed on low. The aim is to incorporate as little air as possible to minimize the cookies’ spread during baking.
Step 1
In a 12-inch skillet over medium-low, toast the almond flour, stirring often, until golden brown, 6 to 8 minutes. Immediately transfer to a medium bowl to prevent overbrowning. Cool until barely warm to the touch.
Step 2
Meanwhile, heat the oven to 350°F with racks in the upper- and lower-middle positions. Line 2 rimmed baking sheets with kitchen parchment. In a small, shallow bowl and using a fork, beat together the egg yolk and 2 teaspoons water until combined; set aside for dipping.
Step 3
Into the cooled almond flour, whisk the all-purpose flour, baking soda and salt. In a stand mixer with the paddle attachment, beat the butter, shortening and sugar on low until creamy, scraping the bowl as needed, about 1 minute. Add the whole egg and extract, beat on low until fully incorporated, 30 to 45 seconds. Scrape the bowl. Add the flour mixture, then beat on low until evenly moistened, about 30 seconds. Detach the bowl from the mixer. Using the spatula, give the dough a few folds, scraping the bottom and sides to ensure no pockets of flour remain. The dough will be soft but should not be sticky.
Step 4
Transfer the dough to the counter. Gently and briefly knead by hand, just until the dough forms a smooth ball. Divide into 24 portions (1½ tablespoons each) then roll each between your palms into a ball. Using your hand, slightly flatten the balls so each measures about 1½ inches across. One at a time, dip the bottom of each portion in the yolk mixture, then set it dipped side up on one of the prepared baking sheets, with 12 per sheet. Press an almond into the center of each, embedding it deeply enough that the dough slightly rises up around it.
Step 5
Bake until golden brown and fissured on the surface, 16 to 18 minutes, rotating the baking sheets and switching their positions halfway through. Cool on the baking sheets on wire racks for about 10 minutes. Using a wide metal spatula, transfer the cookies directly to the racks and cool completely.