Chinese Almond Cookies

These golden-hued cookies, meant to resemble coins, are believed to be a Chinese-American invention inspired by traditional Chinese walnut cookies called hup toh soh. The almond cookies sold in bakeries typically have a sturdy crispness throughout yet a unique fineness and lightness to the crumb because of the fat used to make the dough—oftentimes shortening or sometimes lard. But their almond character tends to be one-note and heavy, derived primarily from extract. In our version, we use a combination of butter and shortening (we preferred the cleaner flavor of shortening over lard). Using this duo makes the cookies richer and sweeter; it also results in delicately crisp edges that contrast nicely against the slightly chewy centers. To give the cookies deep, true nuttiness, in addition to a small amount of almond extract, we use a generous amount of almond flour which we toast in a skillet to enhance its flavor and aroma. The cookies are best the day of baking, when the edges are crisp and the centers yielding. They can, however, be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to five days, but their texture will become more uniform.