Browned Butter Madeleines

At Jouvence restaurant in Paris, chef Romain Thibault is known for his warm, made-to-order madeleines, which feature a delicious contrast of delicately crisp exterior and rich, custardy-cakey crumb. Thibault uses browned butter, almond flour, and grated orange zest (we also like lemon zest). He does not add baking powder, instead relying solely on egg whites for lift, and his mixing method is simple—just a whisk and a few bowls. You will, however, need a madeleine pan. We recommend the Fox Run nonstick 12-mold madeleine pan for even browning and release. A USA Pan nonstick 16-mold madeleine pan also is a good choice; it yields slightly smaller cakes, but more of them. It is important to measure the egg whites for the batter, as large eggs vary greatly in the volume of white each contains. The madeleines are superb warm, but also are excellent fully cooled. Store extras at room temperature in an airtight container for up to three days.