Browned Butter Madeleines
- Makes12 madeleines
- Cook Time45 minutes
- Active time plus cooling30 minutes active, plus refrigeration and cooling
At Jouvence restaurant in Paris, chef Romain Thibault is known for his warm, made-to-order madeleines, which feature a delicious contrast of delicately crisp exterior and rich, custardy-cakey crumb. Thibault uses browned butter, almond flour, and grated orange zest (we also like lemon zest). He does not add baking powder, instead relying solely on egg whites for lift, and his mixing method is simple—just a whisk and a few bowls. You will, however, need a madeleine pan. We recommend the Fox Run nonstick 12-mold madeleine pan for even browning and release. A USA Pan nonstick 16-mold madeleine pan also is a good choice; it yields slightly smaller cakes, but more of them. It is important to measure the egg whites for the batter, as large eggs vary greatly in the volume of white each contains. The madeleines are superb warm, but also are excellent fully cooled. Store extras at room temperature in an airtight container for up to three days.
Don’t skip the step of refrigerating the batter before baking. It should be thoroughly chilled, which takes at least four hours (the batter will keep for up to two days). If it is not cold, it may overflow the molds during baking. Also chill the pan after buttering. This moderates the browning, giving the cakes time to rise and bake through.
Step 1
In a small saucepan over medium, cook 113 grams (8 tablespoons) butter, swirling, until the milk solids at the bottom are deeply browned and the butter has a rich, nutty aroma, 4 to 6 minutes. Transfer to a liquid measuring cup or small bowl and cool until barely warm but still fluid, about 15 minutes. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, whisk both flours and the salt.
Step 2
In a medium bowl, whisk the sugar, egg whites, orange zest and vanilla until frothy and the sugar has dissolved. Whisk in the flour mixture. Add the browned butter and whisk, slowly at first, then more vigorously as the butter is incorporated, until homogeneous. Scrape the bowl and give the batter a final stir; it will be thick but pourable. Cover and refrigerate at least 4 hours or up to 2 days.
Step 3
When ready to bake, lightly brush the molds of a nonstick 12- or 16-mold madeleine pan (see headnote) with the room-temperature butter, making sure the grooves are coated. Refrigerate the pan while you heat the oven to 400°F with a rack in the middle position.
Step 4
When the oven is heated, use 2 spoons or a spring-loaded scoop to portion the batter into the molds of the prepared pan, dividing it evenly (about 2 tablespoons per pan if using a 12-mold pan or about 1½ tablespoons if using a 16-mold pan). Work quickly so the pan and batter do not lose their chill. Bake until the edges are deep golden brown and the centers are domed and lightly golden, about 15 minutes.
Step 5
Immediately tip the madeleines out of the pan onto a wire rack. If any do not release, use a spoon to carefully loosen them. Turn the madeleines shell side up; cool for at least 5 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature.
