Austrian Apple Strudel

In Austria, Eva-Maria Steinbichler and her daughter, Petra Steinbichler, showed us how to prepare a proper apple strudel. The result was a light, barely there pastry surrounding a buttery, sweet-tart filling. To build impressive gluten strength in the dough, Steinbichler kneaded it by hand and employed a method called crashing, which involves repeatedly throwing the dough against the work surface. After a brief rest to let the proteins relax, she stretched the dough to near-transparency. She then taught us the art of the tablecloth roll, a classic Strudel-making step. Having stretched the dough directly on a clean tablecloth, Steinbichler scattered on the filling, then gently lifted the cloth to coax the dough into a log, as if making a jellyroll cake. We also employ this easy, effective technique, so you will need a clean tablecloth or other lint-free fabric folded into a 3- to 4-foot square. Serve with a dusting of powdered sugar and lightly sweetened whipped cream. The Strudel tastes best freshly baked, but leftovers can be stored in a sealed container at room temperature; before serving, reheat in a 400°F oven for five to 10 minutes.