Risotto di Limone (Amalfi, Italy)

This is our version of the risotto di limone Giovanna Aceto taught us to make in Amalfi, Italy. For a flavorful broth with a pronounced citrusy kick, we steep shrimp shells and strips of lemon zest in water, then stir in lemon juice and grated zest just before serving. The risotto is finished with an egg yolk and some cream, giving the rice a rich, creamy flavor and velvety texture.

If you buy peeled shrimp, bottled clam juice is a fine substitute. Bring two 8-ounce bottles clam juice, 3 cups water, ½ teaspoon salt and the zest strips to a simmer in the saucepan and cook, covered, for 10 minutes to infuse, then strain as directed.