Colombian-Style Empanadas

In her book “Colombiana,” Mariana Velásquez explains that Colombian empanadas are almost always deep-fried—not baked, as Argentinian empanadas are—creating deeply golden, extra-crisp crusts that conceal any number of fillings. A savory mixture of potatoes and ground beef, flavored with alliums, fresh chilies, tomatoes and spices fill these fantastic empanadas, an adaptation of her recipe.

The dough is not traditional, but Velásquez says it is much easier to work with than the classic version made with masarepa (a type of corn flour). This dough combines all-purpose flour and corn flour. Don’t mistake cornmeal or cornstarch for corn flour; the latter is made by grinding dried corn to a powder so fine that it’s floury. Bob’s Red Mill is a widely available brand. (To add to the confusion, masa harina is yet another type of ground corn product, and not the type to use here.)

You will need a 4-inch cutter to stamp out circles of the rolled dough. If you don’t own one, improvise with an inverted plastic deli container. If you prefer to not deep-fry, you can bake the empanadas 12 at a time on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Brush the surfaces with a large egg whisked with 1 tablespoon water, then bake in the middle of a 400°F oven until golden brown, 15 to 18 minutes. Baked empanadas aren’t as crisp and evenly browned as deep-fried, but still will be delicious. Serve the empanadas warm with the Colombian spicy green salsa called ají.